San Diego's Hidden Gem: La Jolla Shores

A slightly curvy road exits off Interstate 5 in southern California, dropping down a coastal chaparral canyon. Suddenly, without warning, the chaparral is gone, replaced by palm trees, lush bougainvillea, tiled roofs and small, cozy La Jolla Shores.

This beach enclave is tucked into the north end of La Jolla proper, part of the San Diego metropolis. The mile-long sandy beach is anchored by the iconic, red-tiled La Jolla Shores Hotel and Beach and Tennis Club on the south end and on the north end by Scripps Institute of Oceanography and its 1,000-foot pier jutting into the Pacific, both part of the University of California. Everything you need is within walking distance of the beach.

Family-friendly La Jolla Shores Hotel, with complimentary lounge chairs and umbrellas, is located on the beach, bordered in part by an esplanade and a park. The beach is rarely crowded except during the peak of summer, and even then there's room for everyone. Toddlers play at the water's edge, surfers dot the wave breaks from mid-beach to the pier, and at the south end, kayakers and stand -- up paddle-boarders launch into the swells directly in front of the hotel. Meanwhile, scuba divers head toward La Jolla's deep submarine canyons just offshore.

Many of the hotel rooms have oceanfront views, and it's easy to while away time sitting on a balcony, watching the ocean and its players while sipping on a cup of morning coffee or an afternoon glass of wine. The hotel's restaurant and bar next to the pool directly face the ocean, as well, making for another beach-gazing venue.

Inside, the restaurant has large windows framing a view of the Pacific. Outside, in addition to the poolside patio, there is another patio, this one directly on the esplanade, which is as close to eating on the beach as you can get, short of bringing your own picnic. Shaded by large umbrellas, this is an ideal spot for lunch or afternoon happy hour, which runs from 2 to 5 p.m. The Shores Restaurant menu has a casual, Baja California flair with such offerings as fish tacos, guacamole, ahi tuna bowls and grilled halibut, perfect pairings with icy margaritas, mojitos or one of the bar's signature cocktails.

At the opposite end of the beach, about a 20-minute walk, is Carolyn's Cafe, part of Scripps Institute but open to the public. A large deck overhangs the beach itself. The food is simple, healthy and delicious, from smoothies to oatmeal, salads and sandwiches. Breakfasts are copious, with your choice of omelet, fresh fruit and home-fried potatoes. Plenty of different coffees and other drinks, including wine and beer, are on offer, and few things are as rewarding as sitting on that deck, watching the endless waves and the surfers, regardless of the time of day.

The queen of La Jolla Shores (and San Diego's) restaurants is the venerable Marine Room, part of the family-owned La Jolla Shores Hotel and Beach and Tennis Club complex. The restaurant, built in 1941, sits directly on beachfront rocks and spans two dining rooms and a central lounge. At high tide, the ocean swirls against the restaurant's walls of aquarium-glass windows, hurling waves that cause the diners to collectively gasp at the momentary thrill of assault while enjoying their fine-dining experience. These High Tide Dinners are extremely popular and need to be reserved well in advance.

The menu's focus is on elegant and creatively prepared seafood dishes and special cuts of beef. On a recent visit I opted for the Local Bluefin Tuna Tataki, seared tuna steak with a chermoula sauce and ginger, garnished with delicate blossoms, followed by a perfectly cooked rib-eye steak.

One of the big perks of staying at the La Jolla Shores Hotel is its complimentary shuttle service, which operates until early evening and takes guests anywhere within a roughly 5-mile radius of the hotel. This includes the village of La Jolla, chock-full of shopping and dining opportunities.

At Marisi, an Italian restaurant with a stunning, high columned, vine-covered outdoor seating area, replete with lush plants, exotic tiles and rustic wood furnishings, the diner is transported to Italy, somewhere along the Mediterranean or Adriatic. The wood-fired oven in the open kitchen turns out such fancy fare as hearth-roasted maitake mushrooms and bone-marrow, the latter accompanied by Calabrian chiles. The pastas are homemade, including the stellar Duck Lasagna, and for the very hungry, a classic 40-ounce, Florentine-style steak. The wine list is extensive, with the Italian wines sorted by region.

Nor far from Marisi is Nine-Ten, a fine dining restaurant tucked into the beautifully renovated and refurbished 100-year-old Grand Colonial Hotel, a La Jolla landmark that once housed a dark bar with nightly specials such as Hawaiian-style beef ribs. Today there's a patio for outside dining, and the view here is of the lively crowd of people who flock to the restaurant for its food and award-winning wine list.

The food, top-level sea and farm-to-table, is sophisticated and exquisitely presented. A Hamachi sashimi, baja striped crudo and grilled octopus might sound simple but not in the hands of Chef Jason Knibbs, who has been at the helm of the restaurant for more than 20 years. The sommelier is exceptionally helpful and will happily pair your dishes with wine, if you ask.

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WHEN YOU GO

La Jolla Shores Hotel and Marine Room: ljshoreshotel.com

Marisi: marisilajolla.com

Nine-Ten: nine-ten.com

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Georgeanne Brennan is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.