Fried chicken is a wonderful treat. It has an ultra-crispy exterior, a moist interior, and plenty of flavor. Little wonder we also love a properly cooked chicken-fried steak — a flavorful twist on fried chicken. The same technique applies — crispy outside, moist inside — but with beef this time.

It can be a bit confusing on a menu — is it chicken? Is it steak? Chicken-fried steak is a beef steak fried in the style of chicken — that is, oil-fried with a crispy coating.

At home, which steak is best? It should be thin and tender. Many older recipes call for cube steak. Usually made by running lean, less tender beef cuts through a mechanical tenderizer, I find cube steak bland and off-putting in texture. I prefer thin-cut versions of my favorite steaks, such as top loin NY strip for its delicious chew, and beef sirloin when I want a richer beef flavor. Pounding the steaks to a uniform thickness ensures even cooking.

Like the best fried chicken, using a brine on the raw meat helps retain moisture and enhances flavor. Common brines include buttermilk and salted water. For chicken-fried steak, I recommend using the brine from blocks of feta cheese. The liquid adds salt and a subtle briny flavor from the cheese. An 8-ounce package of feta in brine makes about 1 cup of brine. To make a really interesting pan gravy, add some of the feta, crumbled, as a garnish.

As with any fried food, choose a neutral-tasting oil that can withstand the heat without breaking down, which can cause off-flavors. I prefer safflower or sunflower oil; other good options include expeller-pressed canola oil, rice bran oil, grapeseed oil, and peanut oil. Stay away from “vegetable oils” and canola oil that don’t specify a high-heat cooking capability.

True, it takes time to bread the steaks; luckily, this can be done ahead of time, which actually improves the crust. The cooking is quick — about 4 minutes per steak — so make sure the rest of your meal is ready. A warm skillet of sweet corn and edamame succotash makes a perfect side.

Chicken-Fried Steak with Black Pepper and Feta Gravy

Makes 6 servings

Note: Be sure not to overcrowd the pan for the best crispy exterior. I can fry two steaks at once in a 12-inch cast-iron skillet.

For the steaks:

6 thin-cut boneless NY strip or sirloin steaks, about 2 pounds total

1 1/2 cups flour

3/4 teaspoon each salt, freshly ground black pepper

3/4 teaspoon sweet paprika

2 eggs

1/2 cup brine from feta cheese (or 1/2 cup heavily salted water)

About 2 cups vegetable oil suitable for high-heat cooking, such as expeller-pressed canola oil, safflower, or sunflower oil.

For the black pepper and feta pan gravy:

1/2 cup flour

1 1/2 to 2 cups whole milk or a combination of nonfat milk and half-and-half

1/2 teaspoon each salt, freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup crumbled feta

Thinly sliced green onions, for garnish

Chopped fresh parsley, chives or a combination, for garnish

1. Pat steaks dry. Put one steak between two sheets of plastic wrap. Use a meat mallet, or the bottom of a heavy skillet, to gently pound the steak to a uniform thickness of about 1/3 inch. Repeat for all steaks.

2. Mix 1 1/2 cups of flour, 3/4 teaspoon each salt, pepper, and paprika in a shallow bowl. Use a fork to mix eggs and feta brine in a second shallow bowl.

3. Dredge one steak in the flour mixture. Dip the steak into the egg mixture, then dredge it in the seasoned flour again. Set the steak on a wire rack. Repeat to coat all steaks. Let sit for 15 minutes or refrigerate uncovered for 30 minutes.

4. Heat oven to 200 F. Line a baking sheet with paper towels. Place a wire rack over the towels.

5. Pour oil into a large, deep skillet to a depth of 1/2 inch. Heat until hot but not smoking (an edge of the steak should sizzle furiously when dipped into the oil). Carefully lower the steak into the oil. Add a second steak of the pan size allows. Fry until the underside is golden and crisp, about 2 minutes. Carefully flip and fry the second side until golden, about 2 minutes. Remove with tongs to the prepared baking sheet. Set into the oven to keep warm.

6. For the pan gravy, very carefully ladle off all but a few tablespoons oil from pan. Add 1/4 cup flour and cook and stir to scrape up any browned bits from bottom of pan and to cook the flour, about 2 minutes. Gradually whisk in milk; cook and whisk until smooth and thick. Season with 1/2 teaspoon each salt and black pepper.

7. Arrange steaks on a warm serving plate. Spoon gravy over the center of the steaks. Sprinkle with crumbled feta, onions and parsley.

Sweet Corn Succotash with Dill

Makes 6 servings

1/4 cup olive oil

2 shallots or 4 green onions, finely chopped

1 small red bell pepper, cored, seeded, diced

3 cups fresh sweet corn kernels (if frozen, thawed)

1 bag (12 ounces) shelled edamame or lima beans, thawed, about 2 cups

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

Dill pickle seasoning to taste (or salt, pepper and dried dill to taste)

Chopped fresh dill, parsley, chives or a combination

1. Heat oil in a large 12-inch nonstick skillet. Add shallots and cook 2 minutes. Add red pepper and saute 3 minutes. Add corn, edamame and garlic. Cook and stir until vegetables are crisp-tender, about 3 minutes.

2. Add dill pickle seasoning to taste. Remove from heat. Serve garnished with herbs.

(JeanMarie Brownson is a James Beard Award-winning author and the recipient of the IACP Cookbook Award for her latest cookbook, “Dinner at Home.” JeanMarie, a chef and authority on home cooking, Mexican cooking and specialty food, is one of the founding partners of Frontera Foods. She co-authored three cookbooks with chef Rick Bayless, including “Mexico: One Plate at a Time.” JeanMarie has enjoyed developing recipes and writing about food, travel and dining for more than four decades.)

©2025 JeanMarie Brownson. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.